Erez Nahum knows how to mine gold from an unlikely source. His first restaurant, Shaffa, is tucked down a narrow Surry Hills alleyway between a 120-year-old church and a 19th-century inn. A Caness – a Euro Middle Eastern tapas bar – he’s transformed an old Oxford Street grocery store.

The menu turns out dishes that bring a Middle Eastern edge to traditional Mediterranean tapas. Bites include oysters with a green-gazpacho-esque mignonette; sliders with pulled lamb and pickles; and beef tartare crackers. Small plates lean towards seafood with airy brandade (a whipped cod and potato dip), buttery mussels and prawn saganaki. Plus, standout kubaneh – a Yemenite bread.

An 80-bottle wine list is approachable, with 20 available by the glass or carafe. There are 10 drinks on the tight cocktail list, including the supremely sippable Golden Hour (with Rhubi, bourbon, Montenegro, amaretto and lemon), and a milk-washed clarified gazpacho serve with a sweet and savoury kick.