You’ll be hard-pressed to find anywhere in Sydney that commits to its seafood theme as hard as Mister Grotto does. At this diner from the team behind the next-door Continental Deli, deep-blue panelling wraps the walls, a row of pendant lights sways, and every nook is filled with nautical knick-knacks – from antique ship plaques to old fishing rods.

The 30-seater’s menu is just as dedicated to marine life. Head chef Mans Engberg (ex- Saint Peter, Kiln and Paris’s Au Passage) has designed a thoughtful line-up of dishes which maximises the use of the whole fish.

Snacky plates include fried peppers stuffed with tuna sausage and nori-salted crisps doused in bottarga. For something larger, opt for a bowl of meaty pipis with cornbread or a whole deboned fish fillet. There’s also a raw menu, and a well-priced set menu option.