Either Or

Espresso is served on a homemade concrete block (mixed with oxide to make it look like rough marble) with two dehydrated orange slices on the side. It’s very pretty and the brew from Colombia Connection is good.

The white walls are speckled in modest prints, tables are decorated with bits of the bush, and everything is steel, concrete or wood.

The space starts wide and gets narrow, and the ceiling comes down a little bit. But Either Or’s four owners have made the space feel spacious and cosy. They are friends who have worked in hospitality for years; Joshua Seeto, Shy Libre (chef), Luke Marshall and Gemma Levy (both of Sly Fox Hotel).

The menu is divided into four sections: salads, sweet stuff, specials and things on bread. For the latter there’s the typical choose-your-own-toast-topping menu, which includes an epic breakfast spread for two. There’s also a range of smørrebrøds (Danish-style open rye-bread sandwiches). Here they’re topped with slow-cooked chicken, pistachios, watercress, avocado, goat’s cheese and dehydrated pumpkin shards; or house-smoked salmon, crème fraiche, pink peppercorns, fried capers and dill.

The sweet menu has just two entries, a house-made granola and a chia pudding that’s swimming in a house-made chocolate, date, banana and hazelnut paste – “notella”, they call it. The salmon-stock-cooked black rice poke with smoked salmon, avocado and edamame is a favourite.