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Alejandro Huerta doesn’t want Comedor to be pigeon-holed as Mexican. The chef – who’s previously staged at Noma in Copenhagen, designed the taco offering at Paddington's El Primo Sanchez, and been a regular guest on The Cookup with Adam Liaw – pushes the boundaries of his native cuisine at this ambitious Newtown restaurant, with a menu that incorporates Asian, Italian and native Australian ingredients.

And while the offering at Comedor is anything but traditional, Huerta nods to tradition in the form of a labour-intensive, 25-ingredient mole inspired by his grandmother’s recipe. Here it’s served with squash and zucchini flowers, and guests are encouraged to order around of tortillas to mop up the sauce afterward, just as you would in Mexico.

Comedor is housed inside a 100-year-old warehouse on Australia Street, and revolves around an open kitchen where Huerta and his team can be seen at work. Tables are arranged around curved natural wood banquets, and the exquisite original timber beams vaulting the high ceilings preside over the dining room. The look is sophisticated, but Comedor has the feel of a convivial neighbourhood restaurant.