Before Hawthorn, there was something missing in Mosman. Luckily Sean Byrne (ex-Jonah’s Whale Beach) discovered what that was, and returned it with whitewashed walls, delicately restored heritage touches and a dab of modern charm in the heart of the Mosman strip. The heritage sandstone building has had a spring clean, a refit by Akin Creative and makeover by Coco Republic, presenting a beguiling mix of Long Island seaside and Provence country kitchen – think big pots of herbs and breezy veranda seating.

A much-anticipated venture by owner/manager Byrne and head chef Marco Salvador (ex Bill’s Woolhara), Hawthorn is an exercise in really knowing your area and fitting it like a glove.

The space is made airy by the generous whitewash in the main rooms, earth toned curtains and white-on-white decor. But details including period fireplaces and a front room of nouveau blue and green tiles, give it a touch of pre-loved romance. Hip enough for a yummy-mummy’s caffeine fix, plush enough for ladies who lunch, slick enough for Saturday dinner and a compact menu to suit each; put simply, Hawthorn has a lot going for it. Menu flourishes include Holy Goat La Luna cheese and Sydney rock oysters with fire-ice.

It’s a great example of playing to your strengths, and delivering just what the strip needed.