In a cruel twist of fate it often seems as though some of the best views on the north side of the Harbour Bridge are reserved for people on rollercoasters. Altum, though, has changed that – and thrown some damn good food into the mix as a bonus.

Altum opened in Luna Park in late 2018, in the space where The Deck restaurant once was. The Deck had views, sure – of the bridge, Opera House and Barangaroo – but its food never exactly impressed us. It’s worth dodging children clutching fairy floss to get a table here.

The main menu is split into three: sea, pasture and garden. There are huge butterflied, grilled Yamba prawns sprinkled with sweet amaretti biscuit and served with orange segments and a fennel salad. The duck is done two ways – confit and smoked – and you should order a side of shaved cabbage salad with parsley and mint to go with it. You’ll end up with more Reggiano and pecorino than vegetable (this is not a bad thing).

The Snickers dessert is the restaurant’s most-ordered. This version of the chocolate bar is a surprisingly elegant rectangle of caramel parfait and salted macadamia encased in milk chocolate. Or if the cabbage-cheese concoction wasn’t enough fromage for you, try the fior di latte glacé, gelato made from the semi-soft cheese and held within a dome of white chocolate. Raspberry sauce and poached rhubarb is weaved around the plate’s edges.

There’s a broad selection of wine too – a 39-page broad selection, with plenty of by-the-glass choices from here and abroad. Organic and biodynamic wine aficionados can expect plenty of choice too.

Updated: July 17th, 2020

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