Garaku is the fine-dining headliner at Prefecture 48, a sprawling hospitality precinct in Sydney’s CBD that channels the cultural and creative breadth of Japan’s 47 prefectures. (The precinct is its unofficial 48th.)

This 42-seat kaiseki restaurant is led by Derek Kim, Tetsuya’s former executive head chef. Kim brings more than just his expertise; his core kitchen team has come straight from the iconic Sydney restaurant.

The menu at Garaku is ever-changing and follows a traditional kaiseki structure of 12 to 18 courses. Opening highlights were steamed king crab and sea urchin, and foie gras monaka (a sort of mochi-wafer sandwich) with fig. While there are callbacks to Tets, the experience is grounded in Japanese techniques and maintains a contemporary kaiseki style.

The space is moody and neon lit by by wall-mounted video panels, with an 18-seat chef’s table surrounding the open kitchen. The venue is named after the Japanese word gagaku (meaning “theatre performed for the emperor”). The chefs are performers; guests their captivated audience.