Anyone familiar with Japan will know its kissaten, the country’s old-school coffee houses that predate World War II. This is the inspiration behind Wan, a Taiwanese-fusion restaurant in Meriton’s Unity dining precinct, within striking distance of Mascot train station.

Elvan Fan and Carol Xu, who also co-own Rosebery cafe Moon and Back, wanted to create a place where people could drop by for a snack and drink or stay for a longer meal.

Like Moon and Back, Wan has a cool artisan vibe, with a clay feature wall inspired by the wrought-iron window grilles typical of old Taiwanese homes. Tying in with the idea of “wan”, a word which means “bowl” in Mandarin, the main dining table is shaped like a bowl. Snacks and share plates also come served in bowls of all shapes and sizes.

The playful menu fuses Taiwanese, Japanese and mainland Chinese flavours. The signature Wagyu somen takes its cues from a traditional Taiwanese beef noodle soup – but there's a Japanese twist in the form of somen rice noodles and a 12-hour bone marrow chintan ramen broth.

Snacks might include edamame, karaage and cheesy spring rolls. Japan’s yakisoba pan, the street food of yakisoba (stir-fried noodles) stuffed in a hotdog bun, is reinvented in a brioche bun with kimchi or avocado.

For drinks, there are teas, Japanese beers, cans of Taiwan Beer and fruity sake, best poured over ice.

When it comes to desserts, the coffee jelly is a time capsule of Japan’s kissaten, here served with a dollop of cream, sea salt and a sprinkle of shiso powder. There’s also a milk mochi, a classic street dessert from Taiwan.