Eighteen-hour-braised beef brisket lasagne isn’t what you’d expect from a suburban golf club. But Marrickville Golf Club ain’t your average thanks to Wharf St Kitchen, a casual bistro run by the team at popular Dulwich Hill cafe The General.

Owners Josh McPhee and Dave Moran – both former fine-dining chefs – are known for bringing restaurant sensibilities to brunch. They also dabbled with dinner services at The General, and the menu at Wharf St kitchen is their big, confident swing at pub grub. You’ll find that aforementioned lasagne along with hand-rolled gnocchi, chicken schnitzel dredged in a house-made crumb, and legit steak frites with ‘real’ gravy. All mains come with salad and shoestring fries.

Set on a hill with views of the green and the Cooks River, the club itself is a gem. But it also needed an update. The kitchen was renovated, with a wall knocked down to open up the space, making way for the current tenants. Customers order at the counter and pick up their food at a marble-topped bench before choosing a spot in the 100-seat room. A kids’ corner and dedicated menu cater to the swathes of young families in the area.