Corey Costelloe is excited to be working on just one restaurant. As the former culinary director for Hunter Street Hospitality, he was responsible for a stable of Sydney's best, including Rockpool Bar and Grill. Together with his mate David Allison, he’s opened 20 Chapel, at the site of Allison’s now-closed cafe Stix.

Steak is the star of the menu here. A custom woodfired grill roasts cuts of David Blackmore Wagyu that are dry aged and butchered on-site. The restaurant’s beautiful steak knives are custom made in Portugal from the wood of olive trees.

Produce from Allison’s 100-acre organic, regenerative farm on the Hawkesbury River (also called Stix) fuels the rest of the menu, and there’s plenty here for the vege crowd. Think grilled mushrooms atop crisp panisse, and agnolotti stuffed with pumpkin. We also love the potato wedges fried in Wagyu fat and served with Coppertree Farm’s crème fraîche and a Thai-inflected chilli sauce.

The industrial-style dining room has room for 64, and a chef’s table in the kitchen seats 12. You can also pull up at the dark marble bar and get as close to that Negroni tap as possible.