Adam Marshall, formerly of the Bird and Bear in Elizabeth Bay, gave the 124-year-old Sydney Flying Squadron sailing club a facelift. The site is now home to Foys Kirribilli restaurant and the Flying Bear cafe.

The two eateries are split over two levels, both with waterfront views and open-air seating. Foys (named after the clubs’ founder, Mark Foy), is upstairs. It is Nordic-minimalist, with clean white lines and a selection of the club’s memorabilia on display.

The menu emphasises quality produce and invigorates dishes such as the lime-, cumin- and tequila-cured Tasmanian salmon (cured in-house) with crème fraiche and slivers of sourdough. There are share plates of whole-roasted lemon sole; slow-roasted lamb shoulder; and cheese boards with house-made condiments, such as the fig jam or the apple and garlic puree.

Classics include fish and chips and chicken schnitzel, and the banoffee dessert – a star on the menu, with textured banana bits, toffee paste and unsweetened cream.