Nu Bambu isn't the sort of restaurant you'd expect to find in a club, let alone in the Canterbury-Hurlstone Park RSL. The club is on a corner of Canterbury Road in an area better known for its schnitzel and McDonald's than upmarket modern Asian food.

Chef Freddie Salim has worked in some of Sydney's most well-known Asian eateries, such as Sokyo and Longrain. His heritage is Indonesian but at Nu Bambu he takes inspiration from right across Asia.

The Thai salmon ceviche made with lean salmon topped with thick coconut shavings, coriander, mint and red nam jim is spicy, sour, sweet and pungent. The rich twice-cooked beef is perfectly balanced by the tart cucumber relish. The tender short rib is first braised for three hours and then grilled. The curry here is also a big deal. Chunks of roasted pumpkin and cauliflower are cooked in a spicy sauce.

Nu Bambu has a distinct space at the back of the club, away from the pokie machines. It's understated, with elements of ebony and natural timber, punctuated by pop artwork. Above a long communal table hangs a vast sculpture made from hand-dyed, pleated crimson silk.