Ratchawat’s mission is simple: introduce Sydney to Thai beef noodles. The hearty bowls are similar to ramen and pho, but Thailand’s version has its own distinct character. Ratchawat showcases it magnificently.

The menu is tight and focused: pick from the signature beef broth, a beef noodle soup, dry beef noodles and a beef rice bowl. And the style of noodle is your choice – pick between rice vermicelli, thin rice noodles and egg noodles.

The broth plays by its own rules. Instead of leaning on bones, it builds flavour from sheer beef power: tendon, brisket and shin simmer with Thai herbs and spices for six hours, then cook thermally for another three. Lap it up in the exposed concrete dining room that draws your attention towards the bowls.