Marigold is one of the oldest yum cha restaurants in Sydney. It’s easily one of the busiest, too. It’s famous for its consistency: everyone gets the same treatment, no matter the day, the time, what you order or who you are. The service may seem brash to some; we’d call it egalitarian.

You’ll see what we mean once you leave the queue to take your seat. Marigold is a sea of tables (across two enormous, kitsch, bold-red dining rooms that have remained basically unchanged for years) populated by a diverse group of diners, all here for the same thing: unpretentious Cantonese cuisine.

Almost everyone gets the har gow (translucent and bouncy prawn dumplings); sweet and savoury barbeque pork buns; saucy roast duck; and Chinese broccoli that glistens with a glaze of oyster sauce.

Trolleys filled with steam-baskets weave rapidly between tables. Make sure you get what you want when you see it – dishes go fast and there’s no telling whether they’ll be there by the time the trolley circles around the room back to you. That’s doubly true for the mango pancakes. Trust us, seize them before you need dessert.

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Updated: December 6th, 2021

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