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Malaysian chef Junda Khoo grew up on Lebuh Ah Quee, a street in George Town on the Malaysian island of Penang. Some of Khoo’s fondest food memories took place in his amah’s (grandma) kitchen, and the menu at Ho Jiak’s Haymarket branch pays tribute to the homestyle and street dishes of his childhood.

The Signatures section of the extensive menu is a collection of hits from the original Ho Jiak in Strathfield, and are staples you’ll find at hawker stalls across the Malay peninsula. Khoo’s laksa (and by extension, the laksa “bombs” at Ho Jiak Town Hall) is now Sydney-famous, as is the chef's spicy indomie-goreng crowned with a fried duck egg. There are also formidable gluten-free and vegan offerings available.

For a street-style experience, tackle the menu downstairs, surrounded by brightly coloured window frames and striped awnings styled after the ones on Lebuh Ah Quee Street. If you're dining family-style, head upstairs. The large space has been meticulously styled to look exactly like Khoo’s amah’s home. The floors have been laid with tiles imported from Penang, and the walls are adorned with knick-knacks and framed photos of Khoo’s family.