Ben Fester and Drew Huston used to run a pop-up at Marrickville’s Poor Toms gin hall, firing out restaurant-level pizzas with a killer soundtrack on Sunday arvos. When Central Station’s Eddy Avenue precinct came calling, Fester and Huston jumped on one of the leases and brought Poor Toms along to create the ultimate inner-city hangout.

Inspired by the look of a classic train station canteen, Oltra feels like a slice of Marrickville in the city, with all the things that made the pop-up great – but with the addition of a premium, custom-built sound system.

For pizza, there are classic rounds, bigger than average at 16-inches and more American than Italian. Look out for the Rancho Relaxo, a pepperoni pie with a vortex of ranch sauce. There are also chunky square pies, which can be made gluten-free. Past hits include spiced potato with house fennel-sausage, and a green number with broccoli, zucchini, lemon, chilli and herbs. For sides, it might be a plate of cold cuts, a seasonal salad, a loaf of confit garlic bread, or all of the above.

City Oltra does a couple of things many pizzerias of this calibre don’t. You can grab single slices to eat in or take away. And not only can you customise your pizza with a raft of add-ons and dipping sauces, Oltra will gladly take your half-and-half order.

This being a bar as much as a pizza joint, there’s a considered cocktail list that heroes Poor Toms by way of spritzes and a killer Negroni. Beers by the Grifter Brewing Co are also pouring, along with wines from a growing selection of local and natural producers.

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Updated: January 11th, 2024

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