When Enmore’s lauded Saga announced a miniature version of their cafe in Baker’s Dozen, the upmarket food hall in The Exchange building at Darling Square, the first thing we asked Andy Bowdy and Maddison Howes was whether their pies would be making the trip over from Enmore. We can share that those luxuriously buttery and rich star-shaped pastry parcels are here at Saga Lyte, along with many of the cafe’s other greatest hits.
Saga Lyte is like a best-of Saga, stocking the things that were only available on and off in Enmore, such as the weekend-only pastries, the vanilla slices, the layer flourless orange cake, the cheeseymite (a scroll made from croissant dough, cheddar cheese and Vegemite), a single pie of the day and a pork-and-veal sausage roll. They are available all week until sold out.
The space is tiny – just a counter, a display and a coffee machine brewing the same Artificer beans used in Enmore. There is no room for baking, so Bowdy bakes everything at Saga in the mornings.
And then there are the sundaes. Bowdy made his name as an innovative, fancy-junk-food-riffing pastry chef at Newtown’s Hartsyard, and his sundaes were his most famous creations. Saga Lyte has the original Hartsyard sundae, but there are other interesting options worth a try, such as a pandan, coconut and yuzu sundae.