The old steak has fallen out of favour in recent years. As the ethical and environmental impact of livestock farming becomes more apparent, chefs and diners are getting cosier with vegetables than ever before.

Despite this, there are still plenty of spots to find a good grilled steak in Sydney (as opposed to steak tartare or American-style smoked beef). At the top spots, you can usually choose your preferred breed, feed (grain or grass), cut, ageing time, condiments and, of course, how you’d like it cooked (no more than medium, please).

But however you customise your steak, such a simple dish is totally reliant on the quality of the animal. The good news: Australia raises some of the best beef in the world. Farmer David Blackmore brought Wagyu here in 1989 and now counts Thomas Keller (French Laundry, USA), Heston Blumenthal (Fat Duck, UK) and a number of other high-profile international chefs as customers.

Then there’s NSW's own Rangers Valley, Tasmania’s Cape Grim, Victoria’s O'Connor Beef and many other world-class cattle farms employing ethical, sustainable practices. And it’s all right on our proverbial doorstep.

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Bopp and Tone

The Mediterranean-style menu revolves around the kitchen’s charcoal oven and a 900-kilogram wood grill. The wood grill is reserved for charring meats, including spatchcock and a one-kilogram grass-fed T-bone.

60 Carrington Street, Sydney
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Bistecca

Apart from sides, there's only one thing on this menu: T-bone steaks, sold by weight.

3 Dalley Street, Sydney

Rockpool Bar & Grill

Blackmore Wagyu and Cape Grim beef grilled to something approaching perfection.

66 Hunter Street, Sydney
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The Cut Bar & Grill

Rockpool's sister restaurant has a slimmer menu but the same uncompromising pursuit of quality.

16 Argyle Street, The Rocks
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Vic’s Meat Market Butcher

Wagyu and Penfolds Grange, united.

Sydney Fish Market Bank Street, Pyrmont

Porteño

Argentina loves beef like no other country on earth. Get a taste of its culture here, courtesy of Elvis Abrahanowicz and Ben Milgate.

50 Holt Street, Surry Hills
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Macleay St Bistro

There's a few to choose from. Our pick: the nine marble-score Waygu rump with pepper sauce and thyme potatoes.

A 73 Macleay Street, Potts Point
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Macelleria Newtown

Have a Cape Grim steak on site, or take it home and cook it yourself. Also in Bondi.

73-75 Enmore Road, Newtown
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Icebergs Dining Room and Bar

As at Fratelli, there's just one steak here, but it's legendary: a 150-day grain-fed 500-gram Black Angus boneless rib eye.

Restaurant 1 Notts Ave, Bondi
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Black Bar & Grill - The Star

Angus and Wagyu served with theatrical flair by the water.

Level G, Harbourside, The Star 80 Pyrmont Street, Pyrmont

Paddo Inn Bar and Grill

We recommend the 900-gram T-bone from Jacks Creek.

338 Oxford Street, Paddington
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Eastside Kitchen & Bar

Wagyu and Black Angus fired on an odourless binchotan grill, so the beef's natural flavour is left intact.

The Old Rum Store Level 1 2-10 Kensington Street, Chippendale
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Bistro Guillaume

It wouldn't be a bistro without a good steak frites.

259 George Street, Sydney
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The Oaks Hotel

Decent steaks without the excessive price tag.

118 Military Road, Neutral Bay
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Firedoor

An ever-changing roster of high-end meat cooked over wood coals. Often includes steak.

23-33 Mary Street, Surry Hills
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Restaurant Hubert

There are two superb Rangers Valley choices here, weighing in at 300 grams or one kilogram.

15 Bligh Street, Sydney

Fratelli Paradiso

There's just one steak on the menu – a monster one-kilogram Black Angus T-bone from O'Connor Beef.

Bakery 12-16 Challis Avenue, Potts Point