There’s two ways to go with a sausage roll, and not much in between.

The old-fashioned variety includes oddly loud plastic wrapping; pastry oily enough to turn a brown paper bag into a clear sheet; and a sausage with completely unidentifiable ingredients.

The other is wrapped in a delicate, flaky pastry and contains a sausage that’s moist, well-seasoned and texturally, far more than just a log of jelly-meat. It might even be served on a plate.

Both have their place, but this guide is where to find the latter.