Sydney’s Mexican scene still has a way to go. The right ingredients can be hard to get, and the Mexican expat population is slim compared to say, the Thai and Italian populations. Then there's Tex-Mex, which has its place, but tends to be conflated with genuine south-of-the-border cuisine.

These restaurants are leading the pack. A few do fusion in a respectful way, but for the most part they work with traditional recipes and ingredients such as ancho, guajillo and poblano chillies; 100 per cent agave tequilas and mezcals; and perhaps most importantly of all, nixtamalised white-corn tortillas.

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Barrio Cellar

Tacos, tequila and lots of dancing.

58 Elizabeth Street
Sydney NSW 2000

El Topo

Featuring a killer open-air rooftop.

Level 3, The Eastern Hotel 500 Oxford Street
Bondi Junction NSW 2022