Before fried chicken captured Sydney's attention, there was the charcoal chicken shop. They're still everywhere and remain reliable spots for a nicely charred bit of chook and a side of chicken-salt chips. Many cultures have a charcoal chicken tradition, but in Sydney, Lebanese and Portuguese are two of the most important.
In recent years a new breed of chicken shops has joined this old, beloved guard. In most cases they're shinier and trumpet a more ethical philosophy. At heart, though, every chook shop is about the same simple, nostalgic pleasure. We don't mind the setting, so long as the chicken's good.