The food gentrification that’s sweeping through the inner west is so prolific it’s reached all the way to Mortlake. The onsite cafe-roastery, Wolfpack Coffee Roasters, makes a range of blends and a single origin based on the hierarchy of a wolf pack. “Wolfpack started one night when my wife and I were watching a documentary about wolves. We like the idea of how once a pack of wolves joins together, they stay together,” says owner and chief roaster, Daniel Plesko.

Plesko designs his blends with the same philosophy. At the top of his “pack” is the Alpha, a dark and chocolaty blend that references Plesko’s love of Cherry Ripe. His second-tier blend is also excellent, a single-origin roast reminiscent of buttered toast. Both cups are full bodied with clear finishes – Alpha’s zesty aftertaste is particularly impressive. “I want it to have a story. To have a beginning, middle and end.”

Plesko has plans to extend the compact line in to an entire pack by introducing roasts fit for cold pressed and filter coffee. It will be a gradual process; because most of the Mortlake customers are cappuccino-drinking tradies and retirees, he doesn’t want to throw his community in the deep end.

Community is important to Plesko, who opened his roastery after almost two years of garage coffee experiments during his time off from working in marketing. He didn’t think he’d find the same sense of community in areas that are already saturated with great coffee providers, so he avoided Surry Hills and Marrickville and chose Mortlake. “One day we pulled out a map. Looking for somewhere we could bring something new to the table. Concord came up and then Mortlake.” Wolfpack’s opening is the second interesting venture in the area after Paolo Gatto’s South Italian bar SUD introduced itself to North Concord.

At this stage, the only non-coffee items are peppery ham-and-cheese toasties, granola with berry puree and a classic selection of cafe sweets.

Wolfpack Coffee Roasters
12 Bertram Street, Mortlake
(02) 9702 5070

Opening hours
Mon to Fri 6.30pm–2pm
Sat & Sun 8am–12pm

wolfpackcoffee.com.au