You won’t find a mammoth glass display counter at The Stinking Bishops. “When looking at all the different styles of delis and cheese shops, we found the experience to be a little cold. You don’t always get to engage with the space and the food,” says Jamie Nimmo. He and co-owner Kieran Day opted instead for a wall of cheeses that invites visitors to chat with staff, try new products and learn more about the goods on offer.
“We went for a mix of Australian and imported cheeses, both approachable and some things you wouldn’t usually come across,” says Nimmo. Lauded local creations - like Tasmania’s buttery, semi-hard Heidi Farm Tilsit and Holy Goat Brigid’s Well creamy goat’s cheese from Victoria - sit alongside Italian white mould rounds made with the milk of three cows, and a raw milk cheddar from Scotland’s Isle of Mull.
The dine-in menu showcases their offerings in unexpected dishes that also use Australian artisanal foods. Take their spin on a croque monsieur made with Gruyere, Barossa Valley smoked wagyu, house-made pickles and horseradish mayonnaise, or the slow-cooked beef cheeks with manchego and creamed corn. Cheese or charcuterie boards combine two, three or four types of each, matched with local wines.
Named after a British washed-rind cheese legendary for its hefty pong, the shop’s hybrid design is a nod both to traditional fromageries and Sydney’s casual cafe scene. Borne from a mutual love of France, plus Nimmo’s time working in the UK and Day’s background as a chef - British himself, he was previously in the kitchen at The Eathouse Diner – their interest in recreating a European-style experience was easily sparked. “We’re both lovers of cheese. It’s kind of a mash-up of all our experiences in cheese shops,” Nimmo says.
The Stinking Bishops
Shop 5, 63-71 Enmore Road, Newtown