Satriale’s Sandwich Deli serves a massive sandwich. It’s probably 50 per cent meat. There are four layers of meat: sopressa, coppa, ham and prosciutto, and then on top of that there’s provolone, grilled capsicum, lettuce and tomato. It’s so tightly packed and juicy it’s a struggle to keep it all together. At $12 it’s similar to what you’d get in a laneway deli in New Jersey.
The new deli is designed after Satriale’s Pork Store, the fictional sandwich-slinging shop from The Sopranos. “I was doing work in New York. We were visiting all these delis; they have such a good feel. You go in and there's friendly staff, big servings, fresh food,” says co-owner Steven Gold (an executive producer for TV). When Gold and Gina Zegarelli (business partner, wife and the store’s designer) came back to Sydney there was a shop a block down from their house for sale, so they brought their mate Shehan Gunna on board and took it. “We wanted to get into the food industry in some aspect,” says Gold. “We're huge Sopranos fans and we thought Satriale's just suits.”
Aside from the building itself, which lacks the age and stereotypical awning of the Italian-American delis Gold dreams about, the shop has all the right ideas. The tables have chequered tablecloths, there’s an austere sign with five stars out the front and a glass counter of cured meats with labels with prices on spikes. Sometimes the Sopranos soundtrack is played. “We wanted this to be a cool hang out spot like they have in the States,” says Gold.
The sandwiches are the same. It’s all Italian and American sliced meats, cheeses and either mustard, vinaigrette, pickles or mayo. You can choose your own ingredients or pick from a menu with options such as the New Yorker with pastrami, cheddar, tomato, pickles and mustard; a sopressa and provolone toastie; or even the aforementioned mega sandwich – the Satriale’s hero.
The coffee is old-school Italian. If you’re looking for something more specialised, it’s probably better to try a chinotto or a diner-style milkshake instead.
Satriale’s Sandwich Deli
146 Anzac Parade, Kensington
(02) 8065 9850
Mon to Sun 8am–3pm, 5pm–8pm