Having carved out a reputation for dishing up some of the best pizza in Sydney’s inner west, Pizza Mario has opened a second venue, Da Mario, in a newly refurbished warehouse (part of the old Rosella Cannery development) on Morely Avenue.
Open for just a couple of weeks, Da Mario is already drawing a crowd for lunch, with dinner hours on the way from mid-October. For now, linger over lunches of rose or bianche pizzas including the margherita ‘extra’ with buffalo mozzarella, or marinara con tonno with preserved tuna, speck e fontina with smoked prosciutto, or Gorgonzola con radicchio, all emerging from the central wood-fired oven. True to tradition, the toppings are minimal to allow the ingredients to shine. Bases are thin with puffy edges and cheeses are molten-fresh from the oven. Of course you can get calzone or specials of risotto too - but their reputation is built on the Pizza Napoletana.
With raw brick walls, exposed pipe work, huge stacks of firewood by the doors and the bright red pizza oven on show for all, the interior is a appropriately simple backdrop for some of the best pizza going around. “We didn’t touch the floors, ceilings or walls,” says Marcelo Cowdrill, son of owner David Cowdrill. And of course the pizza oven is from Naples. “It weighs three tonnes, it’s a heavy little thing. It took seven guys one hour to push it from the deck to where it is. They had to reinforce the deck.” Luckily, that deck is a lovely spot for the sunny days ahead.