When Brewtown Newtown first opened in late 2013, it wasn’t hard to predict the success it would go on to enjoy. The cavernous warehouse conversion quickly developed a reputation for round-the-block queues and a seemingly endless media bandwidth thanks to the enormous popularity of its signature pastry: the brewnut. Four years on, the group has quietly opened its fourth space – in Cammeray – where the focus is squarely on the coffee.
“When we built Brewtown Newtown it was all about the coffee,” owner Simon Triggs tells Broadsheet. “That is until the cronut thing went gangbusters. We’ve had time to reflect on that and we’ve learned that specialty coffee doesn’t need to be complicated. We owe it to the whole intercontinental supply chain to serve approachable coffee you want to drink every day.”
The house blend at Cammeray is called Raging Bull, and if you haven’t clocked the Scorsese reference yet, one sip should connect the dots. Punch and body are the goals here, but there’s plenty of sweetness, too. The roastery’s close relationship with Panama’s award-winning Finca Santa Teresa farm is on display alongside a roster of rotating single origins for filter and black espresso.
The cafe occupies the former site of The Farm Wholefoods on Miller Street. With subway tiles, a vertical garden and granite countertops, it represents a bright departure from the industrial designs of its older siblings. “There is some exposed brick thrown in for good measure,” Triggs jokes.
Dishes from the Newtown cafe anchor the small menu alongside sweet and savoury pastries from the group’s bakery, Drury Lane. Yes, you can have a brewnut but it would be remiss to overlook the pecan sticky bun (croissant dough baked through with gooey salted caramel and topped with crispy pecans).
For breakfast the buckwheat and cacao granola is served with seasonal fruits and macadamia milk, or a bagel from Wooloomooloo’s Smoking Gun Bagels comes with avocado, goat’s cheese, salsa verde and a poached egg. The shrimp hoagie is a monstrous lunchtime option. Prawns, Vietnamese mint and smoked chilli mayo are folded through scrambled egg and stuffed into a brioche hoagie bun.