Named for the Japanese goddess of the west, Momofuku Seiobo is characterised by her sign (the peach) in a reflective motif on the door. Other than that, David Chang’s first restaurant outside the US is all mysterious slats affording narrow peepholes to the long, thin dining space within, where muted colours, intimate tables, and mood lighting set the scene for the theatre of the open bar-style kitchen, which also fronts the best seats in the house.
It’s in stark contrast to the garish colours of Adriano Zumbo’s outlet across the way, creating an alleyway of polar opposites as you enter the new look The Star from the corner of Edward and Union Streets in Pyrmont.
It’s a tasting menu only, with offerings changing daily and influenced by suppliers and seasons, and so defies any pigeon holing in influences and style. But you can certainly expect to be surprised, with Chang’s trademark creativity on show and surprising combinations of flavours and textures on offer. Dinner takes two hours for the set menu and if you’re at the bar seating, then you might even get served by the team of chefs.
Taking bookings since late October, the buzz and anticipation was in full swing for months before hand, with Chang himself in town for the opening. Still, there’s a certain amount of secrecy surrounding Momofuku Seiobo, and without giving too much away, it’s worth unveiling the mystery. Simply put, the surroundings might be understated, but that just leaves room for the food to take centre stage.