The team that gave us Kürtosh Randwick (Tom and Ben Haikin and patisserie expert Jean-Marc Masset) and more recently Kürtosh Surry Hills has headed north, bringing their eponymous chimney cakes to the lower north shore. Taking up in the building that once housed Intarsia Homeware in the Crows Nest shopping strip, the Hungarian bakery opened its doors two weeks ago in the newly kitted out space.
“Each location that we choose is not about the suburb,” says Ben Haikin on a rare break from churning out coffees at the new store. “It’s not about the name or a target. We just drive around and keep an eye out until we see something we like that really feels good to us.”
So far, nights have been going well, with few other places in Crows Nest offering coffee and cake late into the evening (they’re open until 10pm).
The fit-out is in line with their Surry Hills branch, sporting the same distinctive blue and white tiles, raw brickwork and uncrowded layout that makes the sister store such a pleasure. Coffee is by Mecca and the vast displays of huge slab cakes (including peanut butter and chocolate) are still available sliced to order and priced by weight, not to mention savoury burek and pastry twists.
But the pride and joy is on display in the front window, where the Kürtoskalács-making takes place. Dough is rolled, wrapped around its central column and baked to order in the little, silver Kurtosh oven, producing sweet, yeasty, cinnamon sugar or nut-encrusted bread chimneys. It’s still like something out of a fairytale. And finally, if you live on the north shore, you don’t have to cross the bridge for a taste of this Hungarian treat.
Kürtosh Crows Nest
110–112 Willoughby Road, Crows Nest
(02) 9439 4563
Mon to Fri 7am–10pm
Sat & Sun 8am–10pm