Sad news, followed by better news: after a year of leading the kitchen at Bar Brosé, Analiese Gregory is leaving Sydney to head up the kitchen at Franklin in Hobart – an equally impressive restaurant once captained by David Moyle. (He’s now moved on to pursue his new Melbourne venture Longsong.)
From June 28, Adam Wolfers (Yellow) and Marc Dempsey (Universal, 121BC, Cornersmith) will temporarily take the reigns of Gregory’s Darlinghurst restaurant, with a two-month pop-up celebrating Jewish and Eastern European flavours. The menu, just as it was at the pair’s recent pop-up at Casoni, will be filled with modern interpretations of European dishes passed down through Wolfers’s family.
Wolfers, the self-proclaimed “Notorious Jew”, says, “It’s going to be very vegetable-focused, but there will definitely be some meat and fish on the menu, too. I’ll be doing a lot of the food that my Grandma used to cook me as a kid.”
The matzo-ball soup special from the Casoni pop-up will return, and alongside it there will be fried Hungarian bread served with dukkah. There will also be a parsnip schnitzel, and an apple-and-mooseberry strudel with star anise ice-cream for dessert.
A meatier dish to look forward to is the Meat and Zaft: slow-cooked bone-marrow soup served with mushrooms and a piece of buttery, salty challah bread. “It’s what we ate as kids,” says Wolfer. “My grandma used to slow-cook the meat for hours, then we would put some mushrooms onto our bread and dip it into the soup.”
Dempsey will run the front of house, and Bar Brosé’s Ed Loveday will create a few cocktails to match the new menu.
This article was updated on August 4, 2017.