Barangaroo may have witnessed a dizzying number of openings in just the past year but there’s still a few plots of prime real estate to be filled. Chief among them is the spot under Nola, one of the only areas to have water views when construction is finished. Drew Bolton’s Eté (pronounced “et-ay”) is taking it – a French restaurant so seasonally focused it’ll have a quarterly wine list.

“Each season we're going to be focusing on a particular region in France that's great in that season. When we open in winter we'll be focused on the Rhone valley,” says Bolton (who also owns Vine, Brick Lane). Using a Coravin, each wine will available by the glass, some in small tasters. “It'll be the best from that region. Stuff that you can't usually get by the glass.”

The menu is still in development, Bolton says. “We're going to do everything you'd expect to see in a French restaurant but it will be freshened up and worked with to suit our style and our palette,” says Bolton. One thing he’s working on is the charcuterie range. “It’ll be a strong offering. We'll be working with some great producers directly. We want to be involved with the process of the cattle being raised. We're pretty tight with the farmers,” says Bolton, who’s involved in Double Bay’s paddock-to-counter butchery 1888 Certified.

Otherwise, the only menu item Bolton has settled on is a re-worked grenobloise. “Traditionally it's prepared with salted burnt butter and lemon. We want to freshen that up a bit so we're going to poach some trevalla in citrus and vermouth and serve it with a vinaigrette and a raw mushroom salad,” says Bolton. “It's killer, really fresh and tasty.”

Although he wants it to feel casual, he’s hired Foolscap Studio, the design team for Broadsheet Restaurant and Noma Australia, to make the mid-sized restaurant visually reflective of his ideas of seasonality, working directly with producers and regional French cuisine.

Eté is slated to open in August.

Article updated on 26/7/17.