There’s a long concrete bar studded with coffee gadgets, beakers of tea and people tucking into sourdough waffles. Behind them there’s another concrete counter with bowls of fresh berries, seasonal vegetables and loaves from northern-beaches bakery Berkelo. This set-up is in an unlikely place – the middle of Broadway shopping centre. Malls sure are changing.
“Our vision has always been to bring speciality coffee to everyone. You don't have to live in Surry Hills to enjoy good coffee,” says Byron van Zyl, who owns Dutch Smuggler with Chewie Stevenson. He’s doing this in two ways: the location and using alternative brewing methods in a fun, accessible format.
Enter Dutch Smuggler’s cold-brew mixed drinks. One, called Coco Coffee, has coffee, coconut water and is topped with a dollop of coconut ice-cream and cacao nibs. Another has ginger beer, lemon and lime. Others have rosemary and tonic; lemonade; or vanilla ice-cream. For any coffee purists crying sacrilege, this isn’t a cheap gimmick. Van Zyl matches each creation with different beans (the same he’d use for a filter) to balance each drink. “We're playing around. What's exciting for us in coffee is that there are no rules,” says van Zyl. The Dutch Smuggler duo plays around with the roasting of its own coffee, Sovereign Coffee, on the northern beaches. They’re not the only beans on offer here, though. Some of the feature roasts so far have come from Gabriel Coffee, Five Senses and Brewtown Newtown.
Although the brewing tools are the focus here (visually and conceptually), the open cafe also has a simple but finessed food menu, which has been designed with help from Berkelo’s Tom Eadie. Yeasted waffles come with espresso mascarpone, almond crumble and bananas. Burgers with Feather and Bone meat and Eadie’s butter buns are filled with sticky brisket, daikon and pickled ginger, or maple-glazed pork and an apple-rosemary marmalade. The in-house Dutch Smuggler favourite, though, is the ploughman’s plate with ham, prosciutto, cheddar, house pickles, relish and Berkelo sourdough.
Level 3, Broadway Shopping Centre, 1 Bay Street, Ultimo
Mon to Fri 9am–7pm
Sat & Sun 9am–6pm