Passion drove Juan Taborda to make his start in the hospitality industry. Passion for the people, flavours and pure determination needed. “Nothing makes me happier than being surrounded by people that know what they want and who work hard to achieve their dreams,” he tells Broadsheet.
Those very traits saw him leave a career in professional football in favour of the kitchen, taking him from his hometown of Bogota, Colombia, to the Maha kitchen in Melbourne, then to Eleven Madison Park in NYC (which received three Michelin stars while he was there). Now he’s a junior sous at Quay cooking under the inimitable Peter Gilmore and competing in this year’s S Pellegrino Young Chef Academy competition.
What’s he cooking? Something he’s dubbed Maizero. “It’s a dish that blends my Colombian background with some of the best Australian ingredients. It’s a dish made with purpose.”
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SIGN UPA corn tamale is filled with charred, pickled and fresh corn, with the bright veggie being utilised in everything from the dough to the stock. Taborda serves it with Murray cod fillet, black lip abalone and a silky sauce of Hunter Valley semillon, corn juice and mussel stock.
We caught up with the chef ahead of the comp to wish him luck – and find out where he’s been eating in Sydney.
Juan, what’s it like working under Peter Gilmore’s mentorship?
Chef Peter is incredibly talented. He’s always coming with new ingredients to implement in his dishes and I have had the chance to work very closely with him. [It’s] been very nourishing for me. I’ve learnt so much more about Australian cuisine and ingredients in general.
What’s your go-to if you want a quick takeaway dinner?
The clam pizza from Bella Bruta Takeaway.
What about lunch on the go?
Thai Pothong in Newtown, for the papaya and soft-shell crab salad.
What’s your favourite snack in Sydney?
The beef and pickle sanga from Kosta’s.
Where’s the ideal spot for a date?
Bennelong – there’s nothing more romantic than having great food and cocktails in the Opera House.
If it’s a special occasion, where are you booking?
Lumi. I have been there a couple of times and Federico’s food is always on point. The snacks are just on another level – you can’t go wrong in that place.
Where can you find the best coffee in Sydney?
SML Cafe is a little cafe close to my house in Chatswood and is a very cosy place.
How about a meal with a big group of family or friends?
Rockpool. Good meat and heaps of side dishes to share.
What’s your bucket-list restaurant?
Eleven Madison Park. I had the chance to work and eat there and it’s just such an amazing experience. The hospitality in that restaurant is unique and the food they are making is just so inspiring. Apart from [going there again], I’m planning to go to Peru for my next holiday and I can’t wait to visit Central and Merito in Lima. And on the Australian scene, I’m looking forward to eating at Oncore and the new Saint Peter [at the Grand National].
If you’re after something sweet, where are you heading and what are you getting?
Messina. I will always get the pistachio praline and dulce de leche gelato.
What is your favourite dish to cook at Quay?
We have just launched a new dish to the menu: a dumpling [made out of] scallop mousse, filled with lobster and brown butter emulsion, and finished tableside with a sauce full of umami. It’s a very technical dish and it looks so beautiful. The dish is referred to as a “lobster dumpling” but is not a traditional dumpling, it’s an interpretation.
Is there a hidden gem in Sydney that you think is great?
Ryo’s Noodles in St Leonards. It’s a little ramen store, perfect for a chilly day.