Olympus, from the team behind Cho Cho San and The Apollo, is one of the lynchpin restaurants of the new Wunderlich Lane precinct that straddles Surry Hills and Redfern. And it looks set to be an absolute homerun.
Ahead of its opening next Thursday, we caught up with head chef Ozge Kalvo. The Turkish-born chef has cooked at some of Sydney’s best-loved restaurants, including Babas Place, Ester and Anason, but this is the first time she’s sat in the head chef hot seat. “I’m terrified,” she says. “But also, I believe things happen for a reason – my journey up to now has prepared me for this role.”
“I feel lucky that I’ll be working alongside a very talented team of chefs, managers and staff,” Kalvo says. “I’m excited to see what I can offer to Olympus, as well as what Olympus will bring to my life.”
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SIGN UPHere are Kalvo’s favourite spots in Sydney right now for long lunches, snacks and satisfying post-work cravings.
What brought you to the hospo industry?
After my parents’ dream of me studying medicine failed, my own passion took over the reins of my life and brought me to gastronomy and culinary arts 14 years ago. I’ve been cooking ever since.
What do you have planned for Olympus?
Combining modern technique with traditional Greek tavern food. But in the end, for me, everything comes down to flavour. The simplicity and freshness of Greek food and ingredients. I want our guests to find something here they won’t forget – and return again and again; dreaming about that dish.
If I can touch guests with the food we cook, even with one dish, that’s a big win for me.
What’s your go-to if you want a quick takeaway dinner?
Chat Thai, Haymarket – the soft-shell crab and pineapple fried rice.
What about lunch on-the-go?
Torino’s International – the fried chicken sandwich. After a busy service on a Saturday, I come home starving, and sometimes the only thing I want to eat on Sunday morning is that fried chicken sandwich.
What’s your favourite snack in Sydney?
During the lockdown period, I became addicted to AP Bread’s Aleppo pepper and asiago scroll.
What’s the ideal spot for a first date?
I’ve been together with my husband for 13 years, so it’s been a while since I’ve been on a date. But we recently went to Bar Copains for our anniversary. I found it very intimate and romantic. I guess the small snacks are good options for a first date as well. The more snacks – the longer the chat. Comte custard is a must.
If it’s a special occasion, where are you booking?
Ester! The first time I had a birthday in Sydney, I celebrated it at Ester, and it’s been my favourite restaurant ever since. The classics set menu is a very good option for first-timers, but I always go there to try the new dishes. Still, the classics always make their way to the table: potato bread with kefir and dashi jelly, chicken butter oysters, blood sausage sanga, malawach with tuna, any side with potato. And if it’s feijoa season, finish with the sorbet.
Where can you find the best coffee in Sydney?
I don’t drink coffee, but our test kitchen is near Single O, so I’ve been drinking the decaf long black over the past few weeks – and as an inexperienced coffee drinker, I quite enjoy it.
Do you have a go-to for a long lunch?
We love to go to the Royal Palace in Haymarket for yum cha. Definitely get the bright red prawn spring rolls. We usually try whatever is going, but we always need to track down that dish and make sure it’s close by.
How about a meal with a big group of family or friends?
Because I don’t have my family in Sydney, a big group usually means colleagues (past and present) for me. And it’s generally Korean barbeque for chefs – as if we don’t cook enough, we have to cook at the restaurants we dine at as well!
If you’re after something sweet, where are you heading?
I’m still searching for a good eclair or profiteroles in Sydney, because that’s one of the things that I love the most. Even our wedding cake was profiteroles. I’ll keep looking. But Mapo is my go-to gelato when I want a refreshing sweet. Also, I can eat Locantro Bakery’s strawberry mini tarts every day. If I’m around Surry Hills, I’ll go to Poly for desserts most of the time as well.
Is there a hidden gem in Sydney that you think is great?
I’m not sure if they are hidden anymore but Sang by Mabasa, Ryo’s Noodles and Yakitori Yurippi are definitely gems that I love to go to. Nothing stays hidden now with Instagram, I guess.
What dish are you most looking forward to cooking at Olympus and why?
All of the pies. We’ll have a pie section on the menu and they’ll have different dough recipes as well, which we’re still working on. I’m really excited to bake hundreds of hand-stretched spanakopita on the copper trays that we bought specifically for this dish.
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