Where Chefs Eat: Neil Perry Doesn’t Play Favourites, Unless It’s Ramen, Sandwiches or Date Spots

Neil Perry is one of our most celebrated chefs. He’s been in the game for over four decades, and is fresh from completing his Double Bay takeover with three-storey Cantonese joint Song Bird and basement bar Bobbie’s.

“It’s an awesome community – Double Bay is truly a world-class village,” he tells Broadsheet. “People work, shop, eat, drink and live here. It’s at the heart of the eastern suburbs and only five minutes from the city.”

In the new restaurant, Peking duck pancakes and Spencer Gulf king prawn har gows spin on lazy Susans. Underground, faultless Martinis and fluffy Garibaldis are poured. How does Perry keep up the energy to tackle such ambitious openings? “The amazing young and driven people I work with, and a desire to do my best today, and try harder tomorrow. It keeps me focused on the future.”

Perry now spills on his picks around Sydney – and what he’s cooking at home.

Neil, do you have a favourite restaurant in your stable?
That’s like asking me to name a favourite child! I think they are all world-class, beautifully designed and we use the best produce in the country in each. We add wonderful craft and hospitality, which makes them all places that I am extremely proud of.

What’s your go-to if you want a quick takeaway dinner?
I don’t really get takeaway. The restaurants are always there for me, and with all that great produce just down the road, I generally cook at home. I love to open some oysters and cook a beautiful piece of fish or steak.

What about lunch on the go?
It’s always a sandwich at Baker Bleu. They use the best bread, best butter and best fillings, which makes them amazing sandwiches. The coffee is awesome, too.

What’s your favourite snack in Sydney?
It’s not really a snack but I love a bowl of ramen at Chaco Ramen on Crown Street. Chicken chilli coriander is my go-to.

Where’s the ideal spot for a date?
Sean’s at Bondi Beach. Be sure to get a table by the window and watch Bondi go by. It’s even more beautiful when it’s raining, and you can settle in and enjoy Sean’s beautiful produce-driven cooking with great craft. The service is also warm and real, and the feeling is so comforting. It’s a great place to relax and get to know someone.

If it’s a special occasion, where are you booking?
Quay , and Peter [Gilmore] is telling me what I’m eating, and the sommelier is matching the wine!

Where can you find the best coffee in Sydney?
I love the coffee at Baker Bleu , but also can’t go past Room Ten.

Do you have a go-to for a long lunch?
Sunday lunch at Ester , and like Peter at Quay, I’m having whatever Mat [Lindsay] is telling me to have. I like it this way as the food is so good, it’s too hard to choose.

How about a meal with a big group of family or friends?
Porcine in Paddington. A classic French bistro of the highest quality. I love the food, and the atmosphere is very relaxed.

What’s your bucket-list restaurant?
Asador Etxebarri in Spain. I first went there in 2005 and have been going back as often as I can. I love [chef] Victor [Arguinzoniz]’s cooking.

If you’re after something sweet, where are you heading?
Flour and Stone and I’m grabbing a lamington – an extremely decadent little cake that never disappoints.

Is there a hidden gem in Sydney that you think is great?
I love Bar Conte. Great drinks – the Old Pal Negroni is my favourite – with nice antipasti and a good steak.

What is your favourite dish to cook at home?
I love lots of different things and cook with influences from all over the world, but I’m a sucker for nostalgia, so my favourite dish is crumbed lamb cutlets with roast tomatoes, peas or cabbage salad, and mint jelly. Immediately I feel like I’m home eating dinner with Mum and Dad. It’s such a beautiful food memory. Add a great bottle of red, and I’m in heaven.

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