When Lankan Filling Station opened in its cosy inner spot in 2018, it was a rare chance to get around Sri Lankan cooking in Sydney. Since then, we’ve had a few more join the fold – like Kurumba and Colombo Social – but owner and chef O Tama Carey’s cooking has always been a highlight. Now, six years on, she’s ushering in a new era in her Riley Street dining room.

“Our menu has always leant towards the traditional, but we have also always had specials that have been a bit more playful and modern,” Carey tells Broadsheet. The just-launched menu still focuses on Sri Lankan flavours, but there’ll be more native ingredients splashed throughout. “[We won’t be] confined by so many rules.”

Take the kangaroo curry, with “lots of sweet spices and a good amount of heat, balanced with tamarind and jaggery”. The roo tail is braised in the sauce until it’s falling off the bone. The hot buttered cuttlefish (a staple since opening) isn’t going anywhere, and the Monday Buryani series – with guest chefs like Neil Perry, Dan Puskas and Junda Khoo – is continuing. But controversially, the hoppers are now a weekend-only fixture.

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“We have already had a couple of people leave because we didn’t have them, so yes, there may be a little bit of uproar,” Carey says. “They take up quite a lot of space and service time, so we’ve taken them off to free things up and also make them a bit more special.” Hopper fiends shouldn’t worry, though, string hoppers are still available every day, and there’s a new star carb: kade paan (or “shop bread”), a fluffy, house-baked loaf that comes as a toasted slice with curry leaf butter. Make a booking, stat.

Looking for a Sydney table that a kitchen talent vouches for? We chat to Carey about her top spots to eat around Sydney.

What’s your go-to if you want a quick takeaway dinner?
Erciyes has been my staple takeaway for more years than I care to remember. I always get the same thing: a couple of the Turkish pizzas (usually a spicy sausage one and a spinach one), some hummus, the Greek salad and the lentil soup. They were shut down for a little while because of a fire and I can’t tell you how happy I was when they finally reopened. I was scared they were going to disappear.

What about lunch on the go?
AP House, on the roof of the Paramount. It’s close to work so very convenient to collect a ham and cheese baguette on my way in.

What's your favourite snack in Sydney?
One of my favourite little sweet snacks are the Emperor’s Puffs that you get in Dixon Street Mall [in Chinatown] from a hole-in-the-wall bakery. I hadn’t had them for ages but recently revisited and they were just as good as always. They are bite sized, scorchingly hot, with a beautiful soft – not overly sweet – dough with hot custard on the inside.

Where's the ideal spot for a first date?
I would go to Ante and sit at the bar. It’s dim and moody, good music and excellent booze. Also they are so knowledgeable about sake that if it’s a dud date, you can just make sure they keep explaining all the drinks to you [instead of making conversation].

If it’s a special occasion, where are you booking?
My favourite special occasion restaurant, by a million miles, is Brae. I love the food, I love the space and it’s even better when you get the opportunity to stay in one of the guest suites. The food is always delicious and clever and fresh and understated – and being able to wander in the gardens mid-meal is excellent.

But if it’s in Sydney, Quay is the place. It is such a beautiful spot, so iconically Sydney and the food is elegant and perfect. It has been there for so long and I have been lucky enough to go a few times, but the last time was the best I’ve ever eaten. Also, you get dress up and wear your fancy shoes.

Do you have a go-to for a long lunch?
I know I am biased, as Mat Lindsay is my partner, but even if he wasn’t: Ester for a long Sunday lunch. I love being it that room during the day, as it has such beautiful light. They make excellent Martinis, which I think is the perfect start to a long lunch, and the food is reliably delicious, interesting and clever. It doesn’t really matter what you order! But, if it’s on, the crepe brûlée with a sneaky calvados on the side is an excellent way to finish.

How about a meal with a big group of family or friends?
Yum cha is the best for big groups, it’s inherently chaos anyway and there’s always lots of food; it’s fast, exciting, easy and everyone can just point to what they want.

Is there a hidden gem in Sydney that you think is great?
Sang by Mabasa, a tiny little Korean spot in Surry Hills. I think I eat there more than anywhere else. It’s family run and open for lunch and dinner. The menu always has interesting things that I’ve never heard of and everything is always very yummy. It’s super fresh and interesting, with bright flavours.

@lankanfillingstation
@missotama