Where Chefs Eat: Josh Niland Thinks One Sydney Bread Roll Is a “Timeless Masterpiece”

The Niland name has become synonymous with the Sydney food scene. Josh and Julie first opened Saint Peter in 2016, in a sliver of a restaurant on Oxford Street. Then there was Fish Butchery, the now-closed Charcoal Fish, North Sydney’s Petermen, plus Fysh in Singapore. And in August, they moved Saint Peter into the Grand National, adding “hotelier” to the CV. The pair are prolific.

What first brought Josh into the hospo game? “Honestly my love of cooking for others,” he tells Broadsheet. “Alongside a healthy obsession for reading and watching as much food related content as I can.”

In the kitchen, Josh’s skills and philosophy on fish are world-renowned. There are nods from World’s 50 Best; many a budding chef looks up to him; and he’s also judging this year’s S Pellegrino Young Chef Academy competition.

“I was incredibly flattered and honoured,” he says of being invited to judge. “Getting a preview and insight into the minds and talents of these extraordinary chefs is so inspiring.”

But where does the chef eat around Sydney? And what’s his favourite dish to cook at Saint Peter? We found out.

Josh, what's your favourite snack in Sydney?
The potato bread at Ester is a timeless masterpiece.

Where's the ideal spot for a date?
Sean’s Panaroma. Obviously for its position alongside Bondi Beach, but mainly due to its gracious, warm, personalised service and hospitality.

If it’s a special occasion, where are you booking?
If it’s a special occasion with the kids in tow, we would head to Rockpool Bar & Grill to get the kids a burger. Then for us it would be the best cut of beef, lots of veggies, salads and hopefully a nice bottle of wine.

Where can you find the best coffee in Sydney?
Room Ten.

Do you have a go-to for a long lunch? What are you ordering?
Porcine – whatever Nic tells me I'm eating! Last time I had an extraordinary roasted pigeon and some phenomenal vegetables all cooked and arranged perfectly.

How about a meal with a big group of family or friends?
Mr Wong.

What’s your bucket-list restaurant?
There is a long list but Benu in San Francisco would be up there.

If you’re after something sweet, where are you heading and what are you getting?
Chocolate cream puff from AP Supply.

Is there a hidden gem in Sydney that you think is great?
I don't know how hidden it is now, but the team at Fiore Bread make beautiful bread, pastries and coffee. And have a beautifully sunny position in McMahons Point on the north shore – great for an early morning treat.

What is your favourite dish to cook at Saint Peter?
I love our salt and vinegar garfish. The dish requires a detailed level of technique to get the fish to a point where it’s ready to pickle, and then it takes quite a bit of care to cut and reassemble it all back together again. Visually it’s beautiful [and also] delicious.

@mrniland