Where Chefs Eat: Island Radio’s Andy Wirya Heroes the Best Indonesian and a Late-Night Skewer Spot

“I grew up in a family that had no chefs, just good home cooks. From like five or six, my mum said I was always in the kitchen making my own lunch or coming up with dishes.” Andy Wirya is chatting to Broadsheet about his sweet hospitality start. Now though, the exec chef is captaining Island Radio, in Redfern’s newly minted Wunderlich Lane.

The party-ready, nation-crossing eatery opened late last year, becoming an instant hit for its big Southeast Asian menu, striking fit-out and party-ready vibe. There’s also a bread course that Wirya thinks is extra special.

Find out where else the chef’s eating when he’s off the pass.

Andy, what’s your go-to if you want a quick takeaway dinner?
Regina La Pizzeria, right next door to Island Radio in Wunderlich Lane – I can’t beat it for convenience. The pizza is light and chewy and has a great crust; you can eat a whole pizza without feeling sick. My current go-to is the Friarielli, which has pork sausage, smoked provola and chilli flakes.

What about lunch on the go?
If I have the day off and am running around doing jobs, I usually grab a banh mi from Hong Ha in Mascot. It’s fresh and packed with heaps of salad.

Where do you head for a drink and a snack?
Bancho in Haymarket has a great selection of whiskies and cocktails. They pre-batch, so service is really quick, which I like. I usually order the Kong Kong Sour, made with rye whisky and a five-spice red wine reduction. I usually then head to Kwafood Fried Skewers on Dixon Street and eat more skewers than I should.

Where’s the ideal spot for a date?
I don’t think you can beat Lana. It feels intimate plus has a good vibe. The food is easy to eat as a couple, as there are lots of snacks. And they have a great wine list.

What about the best Indonesian food?
Garam Merica, which is in the Wesley Mission Building on Pitt Street, does a great job. They’re very authentic with their flavours. A dish they do really well is nasi bungkus – rice wrapped in banana leaf with your choice of meat and veggies inside.

If it’s a special occasion, where are you booking?
I’m a big fan of Taste of Shunde in Hurstville, which specialises in regional Chinese cuisine. Their steamed Murray cod bamboo platter comes with Murray cod, pippies and scallops, all steamed together over freshly cooked rice noodles. It’s like a big lazy Susan – it’s great. Their steamed lobster with egg white is also very good, it’s elegant and has clean flavours.

Editor’s note: visit Taste of Shunde in Kogarah and Eastwood, too.

Where can you find the best coffee in Sydney?
Algorithm in Marrickville. I order the same thing all year round: an iced long black. And if I want a sweet treat, I’ll get a pandan custard bun.

Do you have a go-to for a long lunch?
It’s always Lumi Dining. You can easily sit there for hours without realising it. Their service is fantastic, always warm and welcoming, and it’s a beautiful spot on the water. The chef Federico [Zanellato] creates an excellent set menu; always flavourful and technical. I don’t have a dish that I look forward to having each time but I love what they do with their snacks – they’re very innovative and I try and dissect the influence behind them and how they’re prepared.

How about a meal with a big group of family or friends?
Mr Wong is really good for groups. It’s an easy location for people to get to, and the hustle of the restaurant adds to the atmosphere. They accommodate dietaries really well, which is always helpful for groups. Their dim sum and Peking duck are the standouts.

What’s your bucket-list restaurant?
I’ve been following Table by Bruno Verjus in Paris for a while now. It sounds cliché but their approach to produce is impressive, they really seem to respect their ingredients and sustainability. I’d love to get a chance to eat there.

What about when you want something sweet?
Freo is great for frozen yoghurt and self-serve gelato. They have a really varied selection of options and their toppings are premium. During truffle season, I got their soft-serve truffle gelato.

Is there a hidden gem in Sydney?
There is a family-run restaurant in Newtown called Mother Yen. They do Vietnamese food and it’s all very good, but the short rib pho is one of my favourites there. They also offer BYO, which I love.

What Island Radio dish is the highlight for you?
I think the rice bread is overlooked a little, because it might sound a little strange and you don’t expect bread to be on a Southeast Asian menu. But it’s so good. It’s vegan and gluten-free, made with fermented Japanese rice. It’s light, fluffy and perfect for mopping up leftover sauces throughout the meal. I’m really proud of it.

@heyandy11
@island.radio