It took four months for a five-part team of friends to transform the Bat & Ball into the pub they wanted to be at. One of those mates was chef Cameron Votano (Lowkey, BTB Kirribilli), who’s pushing out very nice pub food from a small kitchen that’s prepped to deal with big numbers.
Hot wings with house-fermented chilli sauce, maybe? A big bowl of mussels? There are Euro-style nibblies to start and plenty of share plates, plus epic parmies, steak nights and more. Plus Votano’s affinity for sweets shines through in his “homage to Macca’s apple pie” (yes it’s deep-fried, and it comes with custard) and a fancy plum neenish tart.
At the moment his fave to whip up is the pork chop. “It’s a barbequed bone-in chop served very simply with a charcuterie sauce, cauliflower skordalia and roasted cabbage,” he tells Broadsheet. “For me, it is a real homage to British gastro dining.”
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SIGN UPWe chat to the chef to grab his top picks of the city.
What’s your go-to if you want a quick takeaway dinner?
If I’m driving back late from work, VN Street Foods in Marrickville does great Vietnamese food that is bang for buck. If I’m catching the train, I have to walk past Henrietta’s in Surry Hills and I am an absolute fiend for their falafel wrap.
What about lunch on the go?
I pass by Marrickville Pork Roll daily on my way to work. It’s always fresh, it’s always fast and above all, always tasty. One of the real takeaway gems of the area.
What’s your favourite snack in Sydney?
During the renovations at the Bat & Ball, we would stop at Good Ways Deli religiously on our way to Bunnings. That display cabinet of both sweet and savoury breads got us through some of the tougher mornings, that’s for sure. The development of their bread game has always impressed me and the Vegemite scroll is a favourite – especially first thing in the morning when it’s straight out of the oven.
Where's the ideal spot for a first date?
Ante in Newtown. It really strips back the pressure of that first date. With no reservations, there’s no pressure to book ahead. Like, there’s a wait for your table? Just nip over to one of the pubs and have a couple of drinks and they’ll text you when it’s ready. Don’t know what to order? The staff there are very good at taking the thinking out of your hands curating the food experience and pairing it with exceptional sakes and cocktails. I believe the pacing of the food is also the unsung hero of this venue. It’s casual, friendly and gives you time between each course to catch up and soak in the surroundings – and your company.
If it’s a special occasion, where are you booking?
Porcine in Paddington. I first discovered Nick Hill’s cooking when he did a pop-up at the Milan Cricket Club in the Strand Arcade. From there I have always been a fan of his cooking. When you pair great food with P&V Wine Merchants below, the venue is a cracking spot to celebrate. I channel my mother on this one, ordering a bottle of chardonnay and whatever terrine is on the menu.
Where can you find the best coffee in Sydney?
It would be cheeky of me to say BTB Kirribilli, but I’ll say it. But I’ll also give a big shout-out to Solstice in Summer Hill. Caro has been in the coffee industry either as a barista or a wholesale rep for some time now, and has just opened up her first cafe in partnership with New Paradigm coffee. The coffee is exceptional and, if I’m dining in, it’s pretty hard to pass up a second cup of filter.
Do you have a go-to for a long lunch?
For a while there the go-to for a long lunch was Ragazzi, whether it was for an early lunch or a late-afternoon bite. The pastas are always on point, service impeccable and the wine selection always kept us longer than our intended booking. With a group, we order one of everything – but two of the cacio e pepe.
How about a meal with a big group of family or friends?
Time after time proves Bella Brutta is best, whether it’s for staff Christmas dinner or some friends you haven’t seen in ages. Pizza is something everyone can always agree on.
What’s your bucket-list restaurant?
I think the natural progression for any passionate chef is to gravitate towards permaculture and farming, so Blue Hill Farm in upstate New York has to be on the bucket list. But since opening the Bat & Ball I have rediscovered an interest in European gastro-style cooking. Restaurants led by Jackson Boxer, like Orasay in London,Henri Henrietta and Brunswick House, are top of my global hit list. The pared-back plating with a less-is-more style really resonates with me.
If you’re after something sweet, where are you heading?
I’m an absolute sucker for something sweet. When I was growing up, I knew if I tagged along with my mum to the grocery store and played my cards right, I would be in for a doughnut from Donut King. That hunger for fluffy dough with a sickeningly sweet icing has never really left. Now I’m living around the corner from Valentina’s and I can’t pass up a doughnut from the Grumpy Donuts team.
Is there a hidden gem in Sydney that you think is great?
There is a hidden gem in North Sydney that I probably would never have discovered if I didn’t open up Lowkey. It’s a Japanese restaurant called Taruhachi Bento. It’s in a small laneway, and has a dark and kitschy fit-out. The udon noodle and bento boxes are always on point. I reckon there are a lot of North Sydneysiders that walk past it daily without knowing it’s there.