At Watermans, the Bentley Duo Are Keeping Things “Light, Clean, Delicious”

At Watermans, dine slowly. Have bits and pieces arriving from all over the menu. Hot rounds of woodfired pita, labneh and chopped baba ganoush from the “breads and spreads” section. A meze mix of tightly wrapped dolma, caramelised scallops crunched up with sesame praline, and a Cyrpiot lountza (pork sausage), zingy with plum vinegar. Mains to share, a few sides, then the halva ice-cream sundae to finish. With the Bentley team running things, you know it’ll be good.

The duo behind Bentley, Eleven Barrack and King Clarence – co-founders Nick Hildebrandt and Brent Savage – are known for their exacting approach to food, drinks and service. It’s polished hospitality, whether you’re in their finer or more casual dining rooms. Their newest, Watermans, adds eastern Mediterranean fare to Barangaroo. It’s on the relaxed side, and a year after Cirrus closed, marks a return to the harbourside ’burb.

“We’re really happy,” Savage says. “Obviously we wouldn’t have come back if we didn’t believe in [Barangaroo]. And we do believe in it. We’re under the One Sydney Harbour building, which is mainly residential – there’s a lot of people living down here that I think are screaming for many, many dining options.”

Heading up the kitchen is Darryl Martin, of Marrickville’s since-closed Barzaari, adored for many of the same flavours as Watermans.

“I was always a huge fan – I used to eat [at Barzaari] quite frequently,” Savage says. “It was always simple things put together really, really well. His technique sat in behind those simple dishes that drew me there on many, many weekends.”

That same cheffy finesse is here, too. “The flounder is a great representation of the way that we’re approaching things. It’s roasted whole, finished with broad beans, smoked tomato, a little salsa on top. Very light, clean, delicious, you know?” Savage says. “Darryl and I worked hard on the musakhan chicken, too.”

Traditionally, it’s a spiced baked chook, eaten with bread. Here, birds are breaded then fried till crisp, ready for a zippy salsa of preserved lemons, green olives, parsley and chilli. “We’ve got this amazing woodfire grill – everything has a touch of that smoke going through it, which really adds to the dimension of the flavours.”

Long and slow dining is the dream, but you’re also welcome to drop by for what you need. A wine and one of those fired scallops, maybe? A power lunch, an early dinner, just a few courses or the whole shebang.

Watermans arrives soon after Hildebrandt and Savage closed Monopole, the French bistro in the CBD; exited Brasserie 1930 in the Capella; and sold their plant-powered fine diner Yellow. And just over a year since they called time on Barangaroo seafood bistro Cirrus. With all that movement, what’s next?

“You’ll have to wait and see. The moves we’re making are strategic, and make our group stronger and better, and work with more talented people. That’s what we want to do. We’re lifetimers as far as restaurateurs go, so we still feel like we’ve got more to give.”

Watermans
1/88 Barangaroo Avenue, Barangaroo
(02) 8080 9144

Hours:
Daily midday–10pm 

bentleyrestaurantgroup.com.au/watermanssydney
@watermanssydney