The final venue to open in Circular Quay’s revamped Gateway building (alongside neighbours Popina and Espresso Room) is Tokyo Laundry, from David Loh.

It’s Loh’s first move into the Sydney hospitality industry. He brings experience from successful Melbourne ventures Dessert Story, Rice Workshop and the popular Bubble Cup. Loh says he wanted to give Sydney a taste of Tokyo with an accessible twist.

Head chef Naoki Hozawa (Yoshii, Saké) combines traditional Japanese dishes and techniques with multicultural influences in the menu, designed to share. “This style of food reminds me of where I grew up, Tokyo,” says Hozawa. “It is a place I can remember very vividly and I am happy to bring this type of food I enjoyed back home to our guests.”

Sydney rock oysters arrive with a rich umami dressing of yuzu, ponzu and sake, and Kingfish is thinly sliced and served with a sour jalapeno dressing, fresh radish and micro coriander. There’s also Korean fried chicken doused in a sticky, fiery gochu-jang sauce. The kitchen isn’t taking any big risks, but flavours are well balanced.

To drink, there’s a solid sake list, a selection of Japanese wine and beer, and two pages of Japanese whisky. The cocktail list is largely conventional with a twist, like the Old Fashioned spiked with shichimi, a combination of seven spices including chilli, orange peel and black sesame.

The space combines casual dining areas up front with a more formal restaurant space toward the back, overlooking the corporate set on the streets below. It was designed by Melbourne architect EAT. Industrial stone and steel elements contrast with soft purple linens draped between tables, brass and dark timber.

Tokyo Laundry
Level 1, Gateway Sydney, Alfred Street, Sydney
(02) 9251 3323

Mon–Sun 11am–11.30pm