While a chef can adorn a burger with fancy accoutrements, it’s hard to top one that’s stripped back to basics. This is where Burgerhood shines.

Owners Warren Burns and James Bradey say Burgerhood channels ’80s nostalgia; their burgers are reminiscent of the US’s Five Guys and In-N-Out Burger or, closer to home, Sydney favourite Mary’s.

This is not the first venture for Burns and Bradley; they also co-own Grandma’s Bar, Wild Rover and next door’s Wilhemina’s, which has been resized to accommodate the new venue.

Burgerhood’s patties are thin; they're made with free-range beef ground in-house from chuck and brisket (with a little added bacon) and cooked medium to retain a hint of pink in the centre. Options include the Hood Burger, Cheese Burger and the Bloody Mary version, which includes horseradish and spices.

It’s not all about red meat, though. The IPA-battered ling-fish burger is served with mushy peas and smoked-mussel tartare sauce. And the vegan burger has a beetroot, red-bean and brown-rice patty topped with a skordalia (a garlic, almond and potato) sauce and nut cheese that melts like dairy.

Match these with a beer, cider or wine, or what might be Burgerhood’s crowning glory: its shakes. They’re the right amount of thick – they resist the journey through the straw – and come in vanilla, Milo, strawberry, banana and peanut butter.

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But before you slip off the precipice into a food coma, grab a free soft serve. For a gold-coin donation you can get a second – that money goes to Balmain’s Nicholson Street Public School.

The interior involves whitewashed walls with a ’50s-era pegboard menu and Burgerhood painted in red and blue.

So far Burgerhood seems to be as popular with families as it is with twenty-somethings, who sip on beers while kids ask each other cute questions like: “What’s your least favourite colour ever?”.

1/332 Darling Street, Balmain

Daily 11am–9pm