Ask any Hobart local about the best patisserie in town and Sweet Envy is what you’ll hear again and again. Ask a Sydneysider and it’s a bit more complicated. Now, even more so, because Sweet Envy’s boss and chef Alistair Wise has just moved into Newtown.
Wise is behind Drury Lane, the new upstairs resident at Brewtown Newtown. “I was in Hobart looking at a site down there,” says Brewtown’s owner Simon Triggs. “I asked people who's the best pastry guy down here. Everyone said Alistair. We met and got talking and decided to do something together.”
Although the name is new, almost everything else in the bakery is the same as Wise’s range in Hobart. The most lauded of all Sweet Envy’s creations, the pecan sticky bun, has made the journey. It’s a masterful creation – like a cinnamon scroll in structure but surrounded by a dense, gooey salted-caramel glaze. The croissant-style dough inside is as perfectly layered and fluffy as one can imagine.
The other popular order to try is the accurately named Jatz pie: a Jatz-topped caramel slice with layers of Momofuku-style caramel crack, peanut butter, salted caramel and peanut-butter cookie bits.
His scallop pie has not yet made it to the Newtown counter but there’s still a range of savouries such as the gumbo pie; a gratin-like cauliflower-and-cheese tart, and some Bourke Street Bakery-like sausage rolls. “This is a new project and we are starting with baby steps to let it grow into its own skin,” Wise says. He’s hoping to introduce some Newtown-only treats soon.
The counter where the pastries get rolled, whacked and stuffed also doubles as Brewtown’s new brew bar. “We have specialty coffee up here plus everything you can get downstairs as well. Downstairs is more espresso. Up here we have automated pour-overs and a specialty grinder,” says Triggs.
Other newcomers to the block are Sydney Romantics, a mini store for the Sydney-designed and produced street wear; and Network Connections, a vinyl store specialising in local artists.
Level 1, 6–8 O'Connell Street, Newtown
0412 772 255
Thu to Sun 10am–4pm