Taco & Vino Brings Mexico City’s Hottest Taco to Sydney

Mexico City is taco paradise. The city has long been synonymous with al pastor and suadero styles, but another has taken centrestage in recent times: the gaonera. Invented in 1968 at Taqueria El Califa de Leon, it’s deceptively simple: paper-thin slices of beef kiss the grill then land in a soft corn tortilla with little more than salt and a squeeze of lime. When El Califa became the first taco stand to earn a Michelin star in 2024, gaonera tacos went from local favourite to globally known – and now they’ve touched down in Sydney, at Potts Point newcomer Taco & Vino.

“I’ve been travelling a lot to Mexico City and there’s these restaurants called La Once Mil, La Bonvi, that are becoming super hot,” says Pablo Galindo, executive chef and Mexico City native. “I’m concentrating on bringing what’s happening in Mexico over here.”

Galindo has spent the past 15 years watching Sydney’s Mexican food scene mature. Gone are the days of deep-fried shells, shredded lettuce and mountains of cheese. We now have venues obsessing over regional specialties.

“I think it’s good because it’s going to make Mexican food better with focus,” says Galindo. The added bonus is the high quality of Aussie beef.

At Taco & Vino, choose between grain-fed rib eye or grain-fed Wagyu Scotch fillet – both cuts are shaved thin and draped over corn tortillas. The tacos are great naked, but the tableside arsenal of spicy salsas – a bright serrano green, smoky arbol red and a fruity habanero orange – and pickled onions takes them even higher. The non-negotiable add-on is the costra – a layer of molten Oaxacan cheddar fused to your flour tortilla. It’s taco bliss – a salty, crisp hit of umami in every bite.

The rest of the taco line-up is tight and flavour-packed, too. Springy octopus tangled with ’nduja, confit potatoes and pico de gallo is gloriously messy eating. The Black Angus carne asada piles steak, chorizo, chicharron and avocado into one over-the-top package, making for a fun take on the street-style campechano taco. Birria comes with a rich consommé borrowed from the team’s sister taqueria Radio Taco. The sleeper hit? The fish taco, which we’re calling one of Sydney’s best. Crisp celeriac delivers a satisfying crunch before giving way to beautifully seasoned, feather-light battered barramundi.

Sides slot neatly with your taco order. Crisp potatoes dusted with smoked paprika and cumin are made for the gaoneras, as are the pinto beans – earthy and comforting, with chorizo and bacon.

There’s just one dessert, and it’s a standout: vanilla soft serve with crunchy just-fried churros, topped with nuts and cinnamon, in a pool of dulce de leche.

With the drinks list, sommeliers Javi Coindreau and Liber Osorio embrace smaller producers, sustainable vineyards and easy-drinking bottles – which includes a wine they’ve made together in Adelaide.

The terrace space (formerly Bar Lucia), low-lit and cosy, is designed in collaboration with Paul Tooth.

“We want this place to be a neighborhood taqueria that people can return to again and again,” Galindo says. “They can come to have approachable drinks, good quality food and to experience gaoneras.”

Taco & Vino
5 Kellett Street, Potts Point

Hours:
Tue to Thu 5pm–11pm
Fri 5pm–12am
Sat midday–midnight
Sun midday–10pm

tacovino.com.au
@taco.vino