When it comes to matters of the stomach (and many other things), it’s worth listening to the experts. And this rings especially true mid-lockdown, when there’s a glut of takeaways to tackle. So, we’ve gone to those in the know – chefs, restaurateurs and bartenders, who feed us and ply us with drinks in regular times – and asked them what they’re ordering in and taking away during this very irregular time. Sashimi and Japanese are a big hit, as is a duo of inner-city cafes. Here are their picks.
Eun Hee An, owner Moon Mart Asian Pantry
I’ve been eating a lot of raw fish and rice during this lockdown. Really nice sushi and sashimi is such a treat and Simulation Senpai and Kisuke are both very nice. I was lucky enough to get an omakase box from Kuon, which was amazingly good. They sell out quickly but it’s worth the effort to get one if you love Japanese food.
Pasan Wijesena, owner and bartender Earl’s Juke Joint, Jacoby’s
Honestly, during lockdown 2.0 I started to get a bit of takeaway boredom and I’ve been cooking more often. When I did get takeaway it was more of a treat, or to support friends. Sami, the ex-pastry chef at Momofuku, has set up her own dessert delivery company. Each week she makes a mystery dessert box. As you can imagine it’s amazing – no amount of home cooking is going to match her skill or the flavours she captures. Recently she made a lemon meringue tart inspired by Polka Pants’ frilly aprons. I’ve also been hitting up Saga in Enmore for Andy’s pies. For a guy who’s known for his sweets and cakes, he’s a deft hand with savoury flavours. His beef, beer and cheese pie is so good.
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SIGN UPSam Young, chef and co-owner Juicy Banana
Simulation Senpai is probably my favourite takeaway this lockdown. They have the best quality sashimi don – the flavour and texture of the seafood is just incredible. The truffles, tuna belly and sea urchin don is absolutely unbelievable. My other favourite spot for takeaway is Room 10 and Pina. I love the variety of dishes you can get from them – soups, salads, sandwiches, pancakes and bacon and egg rolls. I’m obsessed with the weekly soups (they always sell out so quickly so it’s keeping me on my toes to get in early). The bacon and egg roll at Pina is life-changingly good.
Junda Khoo, restaurateur and chef Ho Jiak
Sun Ming Restaurant in Hurstville is my go-to for local Hong Kong-style food. I order the steamed pork cake with salted fish, sizzling tofu, pig’s blood with chives, and salt and pepper flounder. It’s my favourite local restaurant. They’re also an institution in Hurstville, having been there for as long as I can remember. In the city, Shalom Indonesian Restaurant is where I go for ayam presto Bali (deep-fried chicken Balinese-style), bebek bakar shalom (grilled duck shalom-style) and sup iga (beef ribs soup). I love Indonesian food and no one does it better than Shalom or Ayam Goreng 99 in Kingsford (out of my radius right now). It’s all in the chilli and sambals they make. Shalom has probably one of the spiciest Indonesian sambals you can find in Sydney and it saves me from having to exercise it makes me sweat so much.
Kylie Javier Ashton, ex-Momofuku Seiobo restaurant manager
Apart from my regular go-to Room 10 and Pina for breakfast and sandwiches, I absolutely love the Ezra At Home pack. Not only is it great value, everything is packed with flavour and heats really easily at home.
O Tama Carey, restaurateur and chef Lankan Filling Station
Sang by Mabasa for kimchi (always) and bibimbap. This is all I need for a perfect dinner, but everything is delicious. And it has excellent weekly specials, too.
Jordan Toft, executive chef Mimi’s, Bert’s, Coogee Pavilion
Winning my takeaway goals, and my heart at the same time, is Jimmy’s Falafel. Unpacking the gloriousness is as much fun as eating. Get a pita, where all the work is done in the form of a hand-held, napkin-needing meal in a blistered bread pocket. Or pick all the mezze, shish, sauces and everything else to build your own, with falafel that is green, crunchy and tender. But don’t go past the wild greens, kibbeh nayeh (using fries as the dipping utensil with toum) and pickle plate, which comes with fresh mint, parsley and sour hot peppers to complete the rest. And this is a good tip: always add a Late Night Addition to the order. Pressed hot lamb with flatbread, sumac onions, Aleppo and toum.
Anton Forte, bar owner and restaurateur Shady Pines Saloon, The Baxter Inn, Frankie's Pizza, Restaurant Hubert, Alberto’s Lounge
Sixpenny is one of Australia’s great restaurants. It offers beautiful plates of super local produce, handled with love, in a killer room with thoughtful music. I’ve been a fan-boy of owner-chef Dan Puskas for a long time (we used to be housemates, putting money in a jar for toilet paper and eating bolognaise on the couch). Sixpenny has become the most inspiring bakery, produce shop, wine cave and patisserie in Sydney. Last visit we ordered the lightest, most delectable crullers (choux pastry doughnuts with golden syrup glaze). Get double the amount you think you need. We also got bomboloni (my favourite thing in the world. Custard!), sourdough focaccia with caramelised onion and salted ricotta, Russian honey cake with truffle (this bad boy has 10 layers of cake), carrot cake, a yuzu Negroni, a banana Old Fashioned, and cucumber pickles. Epic.
Morgan McGlone, restaurateur and chef Belles Hot Chicken, Sunday
Sang by Mabasa I get every week, it’s my favourite Korean restaurant in Sydney. I usually get their weekly special – last week it was ox tail. And my son really loves the food there. Fratelli Paradiso is doing great takeaway stuff, especially their lasagne. And Jovi’s burgers – I love Mary’s burgers, but I’ve been cooking these at home and love it. And bakeries – my favourite bakery is Fratelli Paradiso, and I always go to Ria for the liquorice bread. The new 10 William St bakery is good, and Fred’s breakfasts are a must. Coffee and breakfast are Room 10 and Pina, and I live in the city, so I always get Normcore coffee. When I go there I just know I won’t get let down.
James Thorpe, group general manager and director The Old Fitzroy, The Oxford Tavern, Duke of Enmore, Odd Culture
Continental Newtown – I’m a sucker for proper sandwiches, and with cabin fever setting in, I just can’t help myself. All hours of the day call for comfort food. Recent fave: French dip sandwich.
The Tinhorn is a small cafe in Sydenham I’ve honestly never been to in real life, but my partner and I can’t stop ordering from their breakfast and lunch menus at the moment. I don’t know who the chef is in that kitchen, but they are working absolute wonders. We order via Deliveroo. Bonus: charcoal sourdough from Azuki Japanese bakery in Enmore. I think it might be the sesame seeds encrusted around the bread. Amazing with some cultured butter, avocado, hummus … whatever you’ve got laying around, really. Also, shameless self promotion – I don’t order from the Tav because it’s in the group, or because I get a discount (I don’t). The food is honestly some of the best in the city, particularly if you love your American barbeque or pub food, as I do. We probably order the cocktails the most. As stiff as Glady’s upper lip at this point of the lockdown.