The debut Swillfest – billed as the “world’s most original wine fair” – was set to take over The Rocks this September. The event promised top chefs making kitchen cameos, roving performers and a Mike Bennie-curated wine roster across the Le Foote grounds, with tickets selling out quick. But following the Sydney Morning Herald’s expose on restaurant group Swillhouse, there’s been swift industry fallout, apologies and the decision to cancel the festival.
“Harassment and discrimination of any kind is not tolerated at Swillhouse,” the group said in a statement. “The topics addressed in recent media cover a wide range of issues over a period spanning years, dating back to 2008. Over this 16-year period, we are under no illusions; Swillhouse was not always a perfect workplace. But that is not the business we are today and certainly not the business we strive to be.”
In a post to Instagram, the group wrote that “questions about workplace safety and inclusiveness have been an industry-wide issue, and we are committed to being part of the solution, not the problem.” They concluded with postponing Swillfest, feeling it wasn’t “appropriate” to go ahead.
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SIGN UPOn Wednesday, Good Food reporter Bianca Hrovat and the Herald’s investigative reporter Eryk Bagshaw wrote of a hospitality group that allegedly fostered and upheld dangerous workplaces across its stable of venues (Le Foote, Caterpillar Club, Shady Pines Saloon, Hubert, Alberto’s Lounge, The Baxter Inn and the now-closed Frankie’s Pizza).
Allegedly, the group maintains a “boys’ club” culture where, among other things, misuse of drugs and alcohol is encouraged, violent porn is shown on shifts and bartenders who report being raped at work aren’t adequately supported.
“They wheel you out on International Women’s Day, but you are afraid to be feminine,” a bartender was quoted in the Sydney Morning Herald. “It was established that if you say anything, you are out.”
Following its initial article on Wednesday, the SMH published a new report on Thursday, detailing a competition open to the male-only starting team at Swillhouse’s basement CBD bar The Baxter Inn: “The first to have sex with a customer would be awarded a bottle of 1982 Penfolds Grange”. The competition was allegedly over after three hours.
Industry-wide backlash was near-immediate. Gourmet Traveller removed Hubert from its annual restaurant guide on Wednesday, “in the face of concerns they may not meet our standards of ethical workplace behaviour”. Meanwhile, Swillhouse co-founder and CEO Anton Forte stood down from the board of the newly formed Australian Restaurant and Cafe Association.
Prior to the announcement that Swillfest would be postponed, Heaps Normal withdrew from the festival, followed by Young Henry’s, P&V, Ester Spirits and Maurice Terzini. Performers Maanyung and Hevenshe confirmed they would not be participating either. David and Amy Spanton, the couple behind the Australian Bartender Awards, announced that all Swillhouse venues have been pulled from the lists of finalists. “After consultation with Swillhouse, both parties agreed to the removal,” the statement read.
Today, Love Tilly – the group behind Fabbrica, Ragazzi, Palazzo Salato, Dear Sainte Eloise and wine bar Love, Tilly Devine – issued a statement following the leak of a company-wide email sent on Wednesday requesting staff did not speak to media.
“The purpose [of that email] was to reiterate our no-tolerance policies regarding sexual harassment in the workplace and offer our ongoing support during what would be a particularly triggering time for many.” Reportedly, staff were asked to direct media enquiries upwards, and not post about the Swillhouse allegations on social media.
“We acknowledge, in retrospect, that this request is the antithesis of the open culture that we encourage at Love Tilly Group, and regret making this request,” the statement continues. “It was never our intention for any of our team to think they cannot speak out about wrongdoing.”
This morning, via the SMH, 2018 Australian Bartender of the Year Jenna Hemsworth stated she had been sexually assaulted while working at Swillhouse. “My choice to remain anonymous until now has been to place the onus on the culture that allowed this to happen – not on me as a victim.”
Hemsworth was one of the anonymous sources in the Herald’s initial expose. “I can sleep well at night knowing I’ve done all I can to make this industry a little bit safer than it was when I entered it,” she says to the Sydney Morning Herald. “Can you [Swillhouse]? I hope you learn. And I hope you grow. And I hope to god this signals the beginning of the end of this cycle of abuse.”
SafeWork NSW is investigating the allegations against Swillhouse.
If you’ve been the victim of sexual harassment in a hospitality workplace or witnessed an incident, read activist Jamie Bucirde’s advice on navigating the situation.
If you would like to speak with someone about an experience you have had, or would like more information, please call 1800Respect on 1800 737 732 or visit 1800respect.org.au.
You can also alert Broadsheet to misbehaviour of any kind in the hospitality industry via report@broadsheet.com.au. We cannot act on specific tips, but your valuable information may inform future coverage.