Our Food Editor’s Favourite Portuguese Tarts Find a New Home in the City

I know, I know. There are excellent pasteis de nata found across Sydney. I’ve had most of them, I reckon. And despite thoroughly enjoying almost every crunchy, custardy bite, Sweet Belem’s are my firm favourite.

These particular Portuguese tarts have waited in their tight little lines since 2003, in a little space behind curtained windows on New Canterbury Road, Sydney’s Little Portugal. Since 2012, the family-run business has been looked after by ex-Guillaume at Bennelong chef Jose Silva. Now, over a decade on, Silva’s opened an outpost for the golden tarts (and the rest of his Sweet Belem line-up) a block back from the harbour in Barangaroo.

The new space is modern, with room to sit and a takeaway-ready window for coffee. Baking is done on-site throughout the day, with a big window looking into the kitchen. And while the address and look has changed, the recipes remain the same.

So what keeps these particular pasteis de nata a cut above the rest? For me, it’s the custard. The team has nailed a Goldilocks balance: not too sweet, not too runny. Just right. You’ll taste the eggy custard’s hint of citrus, and smell the vanilla. There’s no chance of the centre running down your hand either, but it’s not completely set – that baby will jiggle. The many layers of deep-brown pastry – rolled fresh each morning and baked in individual tins – have bite and chew, with an audible crunch. And it’s complete when the spotty-topped custard (often still warm in the centre) gets its shake of cinnamon. Perfect.

While you’re there, try the bola de Berlim (a custard-stuffed doughnut), brioche croissants, Portuguese loaves and more – the Barangaroo outpost has added bacon-and-egg danishes, pies, a chorizo hot dog and slices of focaccia to the mix, too.

Any time I visit Sweet Belem, I plan to branch out from that perfect tart. But then I arrive, see the rows of spotty custard tops, and know what I have to do. It might be more doable now the Portuguese bakery is closer to work.

Sweet Belem
Shop 3/23 Barangaroo Avenue, Barangaroo 

Hours:
Daily 7am–5pm

sweetbelem.com.au
@sweetbelemcakeboutique