First Look: Sushi Oe Brings Its Acclaimed 30-Course Omakase to the New Sydney Fish Market

Dinner at chef Toshihiko Oe’s sublime new eight-seater at the Sydney Fish Market is as close as you can get to authentic Japanese sushi omakase without leaving Australia.

“At Sushi Oe, the customers experience the way we cut the sushi and prepare the dishes right in front of them, just like in Japan,” Oe tells Broadsheet. “We serve around 26 different kinds of fish and cuts of fish. We love to talk to the customers and explain the dishes and where the fish comes from.”

The details are exquisite. The way Oe deftly moulds the nigiri in his palms; the glide of his knife as he slices uniform pieces of tuna, exposing fine, striated lines of fat; the reflection of his hand on an ebony platter as he positions a piece of lobster sashimi in the centre. But this isn’t just about precision, flavour or even the 30-course menu that shifts daily to capitalise on the best produce. From the moment you take your place at one of the coveted seats, Oe’s artistry creates an immersive experience.

“Even though sushi looks very simple, it’s the most complicated dish. There’s so much to consider. For example, controlling the temperature of the rice, the size and weight of the fish slices, and finally the way we present the sushi.”

Oe starts at 10am, eight hours before the night’s single seating walks in. He meticulously sets up the kitchen and examines the day’s delivery of fish before making his prep list. An assistant chef helps him prepare and serve, but otherwise this is a one-man show.

It’s much like Oe’s original Cammeray restaurant, which he opened in 2020, but he’s long had his eye on the Sydney Fish Market. “Moving my restaurant here is my dream. I think it’s the most ideal spot to do sushi omakase.”

The new space is beautiful in its simplicity. Follow a spartan hall with textured white walls framed in timber to mimic shoji (traditional rice paper room dividers) until you arrive at the black noren hanging in a doorway marked “Sushi Oe”. The room inside is all black except for a compact kitchen surrounded by eight seats. It’s set like a stage, dramatically spotlit by concealed light fixtures. The rules are clear: arrive on time, no mobile phones (unless you’re taking a photo), no dietaries, no smoking breaks.

And although it’s not a rule, Oe advises having saké to accompany the meal. “Saké and sushi are both made from rice, so I think they’re well matched.” For $80 a bottle, BYO is also welcome, but only for those who book the whole restaurant.

Thanks to Oe’s skill and reputation, bookings for the month fill up in minutes, but the popularity hasn’t made him complacent. “It’s my passion to do my best for the customer, and what I enjoy most is making sushi and serving it directly to them. I still get nervous when I get someone coming into my restaurant though. I want to give them the best experience I can give.”

Sushi Oe
Shop B41, Sydney Fish Market, 1 Bridge Road, Glebe

Hours:
Tue to Sat 6pm–end of service

@sushiooe