There are really only two main kinds of oyster available in Australia: the Pacific oyster, and the Sydney rock oyster. We’ve also got a native species – the angasi – but these tend to be rarer on menus. While you can’t really go wrong with a fresh Pacific or Sydney rock oyster, there are subtle flavour differences that are worth keeping in mind.

“Pacific oysters, we always look at the minerality, the subtlety of the saltiness, and also the easy-going characteristic,” says Addy Lam, sommelier at Black Bar and Grill. “On the other hand, Sydney rocks for me are a lot more robust in character. They’ve almost got that metallic flavour. When I describe it to people from overseas I say, ‘This is the AC/DC of oysters in Australia.’ It’s a little bit more heavy metal, that sort of style. But then they’ve also got that richness and they’re creamy.”

How to pair

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While great pairings can elevate both elements, Lam says you don’t need to be intimidated – any pairing can be great. “For me, the perfect match is the perfect time, the perfect moment in the perfect place with the perfect company,” Lam says. “There’s nothing right or wrong. Individuals have individual palates and experiences, so it’s very hard to pinpoint whatever champagne will be perfect for whatever oyster.”

Lam also recommends a certain method for pairing that brings out the best in the oyster and the champagne when they come together. “I personally don’t use vinegar,” Lam says. “When you pick up the fork, don’t push it on the oyster. You turn it around, use the back of the fork, and tilt it in your mouth. This is the most amazing experience you can get. Then you have a sip of the champagne and wash it down with all this minerality, rather than having all this vinegar. The vinegar will basically destroy the taste, that’s how I look at it.”

Choosing a champagne

Champagne is a broad category of styles and flavours, so there are plenty to choose from. As a general rule, though, Lam recommends looking for a champagne with plenty of minerality, often a subtle salinity or stony flavour that tends to go hand in hand with lean and zesty wines. Blanc de blancs champagnes, which are made from 100 per cent chardonnay, tend to fit the bill and are the ideal all-rounder if you’re not sure which wine to go for. “I think when they are young they are the best aperitif champagne,” says Lam. “There’s no doubt about it because of that beautiful chalkiness, minerality, good acidity and that creaminess. They just go really well with the fresh oysters.”

For Pacific oysters specifically, Lam favours a slightly richer style of champagne, but nothing too heavy. Something like the Louis Roederer Collection 242 will work perfectly. “You can see the creaminess and a little bit of that brioche, buttery character that just goes really well with Pacific oysters,” Lam says.

With Sydney rock oysters, a weightier champagne like a rosé – Lam loves the Pierre Gimonnet in particular – will hold its own against those robust oyster flavours. “It’s got that slight viscosity and weight on the palate but the wine itself is also very clean,” Lam says. For Sydney rocks with even greater potency, you’re welcome to roll out the big guns. “When we’re looking at an oyster that is a little bit more metallic, we can go for a slightly richer or even a vintage champagne to go with it,” Lam says. “We can look at something like Cristal 2009 or even an older vintage. Dom Perignon 2008 Legacy, they are very good with that salt – a little bit more richness, a little bit more fruitiness.”

NYE at The Star

On the last evening of 2021, every diner at The Star's four signature restaurants – Sokyo, Black Bar & Grill, Flying Fish and Cucina Porto – will not only enjoy a delicious meal, but will also be offered a complimentary freshly shucked oyster and glass of chilled champagne. One diner will also have the chance to win a $10,000 Australian South Sea pearl.

Each venue is offering à la carte dining in addition to a range of limited-edition indulgent menu options, including a lobster sashimi platter at Sokyo and a wood-grilled Wagyu sirloin at Black, to allow diners to enter the new year in luxurious style.

See more details and book.

This article is produced by Broadsheet in partnership with Black Bar and Grill.