Bo Hinzack and James Sideris want you to stroll down Manly’s Rialto Lane and be drawn into Rollers Bakehouse by the pile of just-baked, golden, flaky croissants in the window. “Instead of pastry being this accessory you feel guilty for ordering after your coffee, [we want you to] order pastry first,” says Hinzack.
Rollers Bakehouse – which is just moments from the beach – has been two years in the making. And while self-taught baker Sideris started out by wholesaling boundary-pushing muffins as Butter Boy Bake, the focus here is on croissants. “The idea is to have some fun with the croissant [and] just be adventurous with what we can achieve so when you bite into it it’s like, ‘Holy shit, that’s different’,” he says.
The classic twice-baked almond croissant, for example, is reinvented with a blackberry and pistachio filling. And the chocolate croissant is made with charcoal-dyed dough, double chocolate and crumble. There’s also a list of savoury croissants, such as the “garlic bread”, which is made with garlic, rosemary and thyme croissant dough and gruyere cheese; and there’s a “sushi roll” croissant with salmon, ginger, nori and wasabi inside charcoal-dyed dough. There are also vegan chocolate and coconut cookies, and maple-bacon snails made with smoked maple bacon, maple custard and roasted almonds.
Espresso-based beverages and other brews are by Okay Coffee, a relatively new collaboration between Bo, the owner of Manly favourite Showbox Coffee Brewers and Aaron Wood of Wood and Co Coffee Roasters in Melbourne. Just like the pastries, Bo describes the project as fun and adventurous. (Expect to see Okay Coffee popping up around Sydney.)
The space has a Palm Springs vibe and centres around a large courtyard dotted with plants, cactus and besser blocks. Customers can sit at the two pink-tiled communal tables or observe the flurry of activity from concrete amphitheatre-style seating. Inside is fitted out with white tiles and concrete. And in a style similar to Melbourne’s hugely popular Lune Croissanterie, there’s a glass-cubed space where you can see Sideris make his creations.
19 Rialto Lane, Manly
This article first appeared on Broadsheet on July 30, 2018. Menu items may have changed since publication.