It’s been three years since Gunjan Aylawadi opened Flyover Fritterie, a tiny hole-in-the-wall eatery at the end of Temperance Lane in the CBD. Now, the Indian street food-inspired diner, known for serving just four items (three types of pakora and a chai, plus weekly specials) has moved into new digs in Redfern.

Flyover Fritterie 2.0 is much larger, spanning two levels with plenty of seating, table service and a mostly vegan all-day menu that goes far beyond the original four staple menu items. The fit-out mimics that of the former laneway spot, with upcycled grey brickwork, curvaceous pink lighting, and a mix of light and walnut-coloured wood throughout. The eatery takes its name from the nameless street food stalls set up under flyovers (overpasses) in India. A faceless artwork by local artist Mart Basa is an ode to those stands.

For Aylawadi, moving into a larger space was always part of the plan. “We had a two-year lease over there, so we thought ‘let’s dip our feet carefully and see what it’s like’. Sometimes you can clearly see a gap in the market and so what we were trying to do was to see if there was a market in that gap,” she tells Broadsheet.

Aylawadi says the expanded menu is all about showcasing Indian cooking in an approachable way, and is a little different to what’s found at most takeaway spots around town. “This is not your usual Indian takeaway; it’s a casual eatery where you can roll in for some Indian snacks,” she says.

As well as the eatery’s signature seasonal vegetable deep-fried fritters, there’s a colourful and texturally pleasing aloo tikki, a fritter usually served at Indian weddings that Aylawadi says is her personal favourite. It’s a crispy hash brown-like potato fritter stuffed with spicy chana dhal and topped with sweet house-made tamarind and mint chutneys, and sprinkles of pomegranate, ginger and beetroot.

Other dishes include a snacky jaffle with rotating fillings such as potatoes and peanut chutney, as well as bowls of khichri (lentil stew) topped with sabzis (vegetables with spices), crunchy fritters and house-made chutney.

For dessert, there’s sea salt besan ladoo – hand-rolled balls of gram flour roasted in ghee, with cardamom and pepper – as well as saffron and cardamom kheer (rice pudding) topped with almonds and rose petals. Look out for specials that will pop up to mark various Indian festivals. A liquor licence for the venue is in the works too. And, of course, there’s a constant flow of Flyover Fritterie’s specially brewed chai with chocolate or ginger and cardamom available to be enjoyed hot or cold.

Flyover Fritterie & Chai Bar
80–88 Regent Street, Redfern
0415 908 085

Tue 12pm–4pm
Wed & Thu 12pm–8.30pm
Fri & Sat 12pm–9pm
Sun 11am–8.30pm